Not the conqueror, but the mutton: A household staple

Genghis Khan (Jingisukan) is a barbecue dish featuring mutton, lamb, and vegetables, and it’s one of the signature specialties of Hokkaido. Mutton and lamb aren’t widely consumed across Japan, and many Japanese people dislike the strong smell. Consequently, it’s difficult to find a dedicated Genghis Khan restaurant outside Hokkaido.

In fact, even here in Hokkaido, they weren’t everywhere when I was a kid, maybe 30 years ago. Back then, Genghis Khan was merely a home-cooked meal—appearing on my family’s dinner table at least twice a month. It wasn’t a special treat at all. To be honest, I still have a little difficulty paying to eat something so routine at an external restaurant. (But, the times change, and so must my wallet.) Having said that, I must admit the best restaurants are genuinely excellent.

The truth about Hokkaido’s “agricultural kingdom”

On the outskirts of Sapporo, the capital city, there’s a famous resort complex with museums, flower fields, a large sheep ranch, and a huge Genghis Khan restaurant. It’s an iconic sightseeing spot for tourists, especially those from outside Hokkaido.

Objectively speaking, the scene is somewhat cruel: visitors enjoy mutton and lamb right after watching contented sheep graze in the nearby fence. Due to the image of this spot and the general impression that Hokkaido is the “Agricultural Kingdom of Japan,” many people assume Genghis Khan is made from Hokkaido-raised sheep.

Here is the big reveal: As a matter of fact, Hokkaido imports more than 90% of the overall mutton and lamb consumption, mainly from Australia and New Zealand. It’s the ultimate imported emperor of Hokkaido cuisine.

The survival of the fittest: A local guarantee

If you are okay with mutton and lamb, you can trust almost any Genghis Khan restaurant in Hokkaido. They are the ones that have survived by passing the extremely strict discerning eye (and tongue) of the local Hokkaido people.

However, there is one crucial practical note: Bring a large plastic bag to put your coat or jacket in. You are expected to help yourself grill the meat right on your table. While some new restaurants have lockers and good ventilation, others do not. Although the smell of grilled mutton and lamb is delicious, you may not be able to bear wearing that smell all the way back to your hotel after you’re full.

Although I said “any restaurant should be fine,” let me introduce one establishment: MATSUO. They have a long history of over 60 years and are headquartered in Hokkaido, but they also operate five restaurants in Tokyo. Crucially, in their newest location in Shibuya, you can enjoy authentic Genghis Khan while seated in our chairs.

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Photo Credit: https://www.matsuo1956.jp/

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