The noble grain: Why Soba is Japan’s elegant noodle

There are so many kinds of wheat-based foods across the world. Wheat is one of the world’s three major grains. (The other two, for your information, are rice and corn.) But what about buckwheat? Is buckwheat food popular in your country? Perhaps you know the galette, which originated in Bretagne, France.

In Japan, we have buckwheat noodles called Soba. It is immensely popular, standing alongside Ramen and Udon as one of the three major Japanese noodles. (The former two are made from wheat; the difference between them is the inclusion of alkaline brine solution.)

Here lies an interesting cultural paradox: Many Japanese people perceive Soba noodles as far more elegant than Ramen or Udon. This is undeniably true. If you took a first date to a Ramen or Udon shop, your date would likely conclude that this is the maximum level of effort you are prepared to expend for a future relationship. If you take them to a Soba restaurant, however, they will likely think you have good taste. This is funny because buckwheat itself has historically been the iconic crop of poor, mountainous regions in Japan.

The seasonal charm: The Pavlovian response to “New Soba”

Another key difference that sets Soba apart from the other two noodles is its seasonal importance. While we can eat Soba year-round, October and November are the special months. In the season just before winter, many restaurants put up a sign announcing “Shin-Soba” (New Soba). Such signs instantly make us crave Soba; it is like a major cultural event marking the changing season.

I must confess to a certain level of Pavlovian obedience here: I genuinely cannot tell the difference between new Soba and non-new Soba. Yet, when the season arrives, I eat it with uncritical gusto. This is funny as well. Wheat also has a harvest season, but I have never seen anyone reveling in “New Ramen” or “New Udon.” It is a truly human reaction to celebrate the ritual, even if the difference is imperceptible.

The local pride: Asahikawa, the buckwheat heartland

I once assumed this intense focus on the “new” Soba might be due to Japan’s high reliance on wheat imports. As I made a quick search, I found that the self-sufficiency rate of buckwheat is only about $20\%$. This is relatively low and not much different from that of wheat.

This fact is surprising to me personally because our hometown of Asahikawa is one of the major buckwheat-producing areas in Hokkaido. For us, it is a matter of local pride that we can take it for granted to enjoy Soba noodles made from local buckwheat. While the country may struggle with self-sufficiency, we in Asahikawa get to live in the buckwheat heartland.

The perfect setting: A cultural property you must visit

As a matter of fact, there are many excellent Soba restaurants here. If I had to pick one to recommend—a place that encapsulates the elegance of the Soba paradox—it would be OKADA (see the first image).

The restaurant building and its traditional Japanese garden are exceptionally beautiful. The site is registered as a Tangible Cultural Property. The historic interior design and the serene garden view seen from the window elevate the Soba noodles, making them taste even better.

(Alas, a small point of disappointment: they do not have our furniture, so you won’t be able to enjoy their exquisite Soba on our tables and chairs.) Nevertheless, if you are seeking a genuinely elegant, seasonal, and culturally deep experience in the buckwheat heartland of Hokkaido, OKADA is the definitive choice.

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Photo Credit: https://www.liner.jp/news/2019092622405/

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